Pork Pie Hats Plus a DIY Hat Reconditioning

 At Literary Orange in 2011 with the Brothers K

I bought this wonderful pork pie hat from my usual source for lovely cheap hats: The Bon Marche thrift store in Sonoma, CA. This tiny tucked-away hole-in-the-wall thrift store seems to have one or two people who donate a great deal of vintage, often only in need of a good cleaning and a little TLC. I got this black pork pie hat for $7!

Pork pies are so called because of their close resemblance to the self-same delicious food item.

Halston hat ca. 1957 via The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

 They made their big splash in the 1940s and carried on through the 50s and even the 60s. They came smaller ~ perching on top of the head to the front tuna-can size (pill box), and bigger ~ sitting around and to the back of the head, and slightly squished and off to one side like a beret.

When I first purchased my little baby, she needed some help. Here's what I did.

The original.

Decorations removed and cleaned thoroughly with a lint brush.

Added black velvet ribbon band. Pinned ot hold properly in place.

Adhered using the trusty glue gun.

Existing, ribbon folded down and fixed with pins, before also being glued (back or side) depending on how I wear the hat.

Inside reenforced with a rolled tissue paper, to help it hold it's shape.

Pok pies then . . .

Cristobal Balenciaga hat ca. 1964 via The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

And pork pies now . . .

As you can see, Fashionable reader, the pill box style is really making a come-back. And now, I am hungry.

Herman Cain Advances in the Polls

Cartoon by Dana Summers

HERMAN CAIN CERTAINLY SCORED A VICTORY IN THE FLORIDA STRAW POLL AND IN THE RECENT FOX-GOOGLE DEBATE.  IN MY HUMBLE OPINION THIS WAS BY FAR THE BEST DEBATE SO FAR.  I DON'T KNOW IF CAIN CAN CONTINUE TO ADVANCE IN THE POLLS AND ULTIMATELY WIN THE NOMINATION.  IT DOES APPEAR THAT MANY ARE BEGINNING TO TAKE NOTE OF THIS FORMER PIZZA CEO.  CAIN'S STORY IS AN AMERICAN SUCCESS STORY AND SHOULD BE A MODEL FOR MANY IN THE BLACK COMMUNITY.  I WOULD SUGGEST THAT SHOULD HE GET THE REPUBLICAN NOMINATION AND GO HEAD TO HEAD WITH OBAMA IN THE GENERAL ELECTION IN NOVEMBER 2012 THAT MANY IN THE NATION WILL BE SHOCKED AT THE OUTCOME.  I HONESTLY BELIEVE THAT CAIN WILL CUT DEEPLY INTO THAT PART OF OBAMA'S BASE WHICH IS THE MOST SUPPORTIVE, NAMELY THE BLACK VOTERS!  THIS WOULD SINK THE OBAMA "SHIP OF STATE" AND SETTLE ONCE AND FOR ALL THE LEFTS' CHARGE THAT THE AMERICAN "TEA PARTY" IS RACIST. 
I'M NOT YET SUPPORTING CAIN, BUT I TELL YOU THIS, THERE IS LITTLE DOUBT IN MY MIND THAT THIS "PIZZA MAN" COULD DELIVER NOT JUST A PIZZA, BUT THE WHITE HOUSE.

H/T to Townhall

Knitted Tops: Part 2, Patterns

I stick to a couple of hard and fast rules when shopping for patterned tops, whether knitted or not.

Generally speaking, smaller uniform patterns are better. Do make certain they do not stretch over the rack so much they distort and thus emphasize that area, both a color pattern and a texture pattern (like cables or open-work crochet) can do this. I prefer geometric over flowers and flat pattern to a textured one.

Don't be afraid of stripes. As with color blocking, you can actually use the stripe, or any pattern for that matter, as you would a bright color ~ to draw attention away form your larger areas. For example if you are self conscious about your chect or stomach, pick something that emphasizes your arms and face.

You can achieve something similar to the above with a patterned blouse and solid colored vest or knitted sweater-vest (that sexy librarian look). Also, please note that the knit in both the above examples is stretching over the chest in a "white" way.

Here I am making that very grave mistake. Solution ~ with colors darker than your skin tone, wear a matched undershirt, in this case I should have worn red. In cases where the top is lighter than your skin tone wear a nude top that matches it. Also make certain you don't just look at yourself inside. Natural light and flash photography can cause "rack reveal" issues.

Here are two of my favorite modern sweaters, the stripes about the shoulders and the details at the neck draw the attention upwards. (Sorry about the wrinkles, haven't worn them recently as it's too hot.)

For heaven's sake, just don't op for the following version of stripes and solids!

Draws attention to exactly the wrong area, is also bulky and too long. Looks great on her, but then I'm not shaped like her. That said, for those of my readership who have the opposite problem from me, (taller, smaller chested types) this is a great look!

 Here's another example of a vintage piece and a retro version of the same 1950's style pattern blocked knit top that be great on a fuller figure.

From Diary of a Vintage Girl Blog

This second version is better for she of the broader shoulders.

You can also reverse it, as white tends to widen and put a darker smaller pattern over the bust.

Things that break up the the eye and torso will tend to divert attention, so something like this lovely check number would also work.

Please note that, as usual, I'm opting for sweaters that finish right about the waist. These are hard to find in the modern age, a great sadness to me, so I tend to shop for vintage tops whenever possible. Given my wool allergy and the general destructive nature of moths vintage sweaters are hard to find. That said, since sweaters have stretch, sometimes I've been able to buy retro and get a nice cotton or acrylic from a discount store.

These two came from Ross and Kohls, respectively, probably around $15 each. Junior's larges, both of them. 

I've yet to successfully shorten a sweater, I know it can be done but as a seamstress I have issues with stretch and I don't knit so it frightens me.

That said, you can find a longer finely patterned sweater and belt it. I suggest using my "safety pin at the seam" trick to kep it from riding around. A nice skinny belt gives a very vintage look, a wider belt is more modern.

Here's another great way to block a pattern. This is one whole piece. Binding the cardigan to the front panel allows you to do as she has done, curve the cardy inwards over the rack, something that never naturally occurs and thus makes you look smaller. Also that long block of one straight line, particularly if it is a lighter color, makes you look long and lean. There's a DIY project in here with a thrifted cardy and a knit vest and someone (not me) who can mod knitwear.

Lastly, if you are still afraid of pattern remember you can pair a small neutral colored pattern like a faint window-pain plaid, check, houndstooth, or tweed with a nice bright pencil or full skirt, and this will definitely de-emphasize the rack. But if you still don't like that idea, you could try color blocking your knits instead.

Note the buttons at the neck, again drawing attention to the face. Nice detail.

Please if you have images of yourself in knitwear, or want to tackle the aforementioned DIY project, feel free to share on the Retro Rack Facebook Page.

The U.S. Debt Bomb and Political Finger Pointing

Cartoon by Lisa Benson at Townhall

MANY OF OUR SORRY LEADERS IN CONGRESS AND THE WHITE HOUSE CONTINUE TO POINT THEIR FINGERS AT THE EURO ECONOMIC SITUATION, THE TSUNAMI IN JAPAN, THE HURRICANES IN THE U.S. AND THE WILD FIRES IN TEXAS AS THE CAUSE OF OUR ECONOMIC WOES.  THESE UNSCRUPULOUS MEN AND WOMEN WHO ARE "RUINING" THIS COUNTRY KNOW THEY CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THESE NATURAL DISASTERS AND FOREIGN ECONOMIC BLUNDERS.  YOU SEE, ITS NOTHING THEY HAVE DONE, ITS MOTHER NATURE, GLOBAL WARMING AND OTHER UNSEEN VILLAINS WHO ARE THE BLAME. AS LONG AS THEY "POINT THE FINGER" THE NATION WILL CONTINUE ON ITS DOWNWARD SPIRAL. 

Not for the Rack: Bulky Tops

It should go without saying that this style of bulky knit sweater, so prevalent on the runways this season, is not for a Lady of Substantial Means. Trust me, you are not covering anything up, you are adding weight and bulk up top and thus look even more top heavy. Instead, opt for a nice structured jacket: leather or tweed or even plaid. I cannot say enough good things about a structured jacket. Even if you believe you do not have a waist, the structured jacket can give you the illusion of one.

It's not only chunky knits and cables that's bad for the boobs. Sweaters that are too fuzzy and those that have added and unnecessary detailing around the chest area are also bad.

The thing to remember is that all fabrics, not just knits, can add bulk up top if they are cut wrong, layered or draped too thick, or pleated too much.

 1911-1912 via The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Wiener Werkstätte dress ca. 1917 via The Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Really, best to avoid anything from the 19-teens, if you ask me. Terribly unreliable fashion time period.I shudder to even recall it. And don't get me started on the 1920s . . . but that's a future blog post.

Crepe, crepe is bad. Crepes, on the other hand are very very tasty, and a breakfast skill I have only recently mastered.

 Oh, I am reminded that Los Gatos Cafe's pumpkin chiffon crepes with fresh cranberries are soon to make their fall appearance. I must make a road trip. Oh, dear, derailed, where was I? Oh yes, bulky tops.
 
The modern age of architectural fashion has given us some amazing art, and some lovely looks. I happen to be a big fan of the architectural approach, but mostly they won't work on us more generously endowed ladies.  Sometimes they will work in a jersey, but that's a whole other post. Here's what not to go for . . .

1990s Issey Miyake dress via The Indianapolis Museum of Art

All in all, avoid the bulk up-top. Here we have an example of everything bad in one top, including a sneak peak at my next offender . .  shear.

And now after all that horror, I give you . . . my current items of desire. Far too expensive, but that doesnt' stop me from lusting after them.

And a moment of fashion randomness uncovered while I was investigating Harris Tweed.

The Stork Arrives at The Russell House

SO FAR TONIGHT THE COUNT FOR THE NEW ARRIVALS IS TWO.  SOME OF YOU MAY KNOW THAT I HAVE A MALE AND FEMALE SHIH TZU. THIS EVENING AFTER A TWO MONTH WAIT "ZENA" BEGAN TO HAVE HER LITTLE ONES WHILE THE PROUD FATHER , "PROFESSOR" LOOKED ON SOMEWHAT PERPLEXED BY THE WHOLE THING. IT'S AN ONGOING EVENT SO I'LL CUT THIS SHORT.